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You can simply unscrew the part from the hicas cylinder to make room for the 17 mm wrench. (no oil will leak out) It took me 1/2 hour to change both tie-rods.
: Spent the weekend in between shipping product wrestling with RR'ing my left rear inner tie rod. Heres a few things you NEED to know before doing this. Heres the basic prcedure: This only applies to a TT
: 1. Remove the wheel and cat back pipes
: 2. Remove the boot near the hicas cyln on the affect tie rod. Just pull it back out of the way exposing the end with the ball joint on it.
: 3. Heres where it gets tricky. When HICAS settles in the off position when you last parked your car to jack it up....it goes neutral...meaning the rear wheels are straight. Now when you look you will see that you have to have have a HUGE 21MM on the tie rod end and a 17mm on the HICAS cynl to hold it from turning when your wrenching the tie rod end off. Otherwise it freely spins. :
Option A: YOU NEED A CONSULT TOOL to activate a simulated drive in order to get a wrench on the tie rod end to loosen it from the HICAS cyln. This allows you too turn the wheels giving you extra space necessary to get your 17 mm in there. NOTE: All vehicle speed sensors MUST be online and opperational in ordor for the HICAS to work via the consult. : OptionB: Grind a 17 mm down to fit in this space. You need to start with a 17mm TAPPET wrench which is already half the size of a normal wrench. You must grind it down with a dremels or table grinder to less than a 1/4 inch or so in order to fit. Be VERY careful not to nick the inside portion of the wrnch or you risk stripping the HICAS cyln. Something I almost did! Took me about 2-3 hours of grinding with a dremel...not fun! : Now once you get the tie rod out the rest is cake. Its self explanitory from there on out! : Have fun!
Adrie
Red 90 TT 2+2 Stage VII(RIP)
Stage XI (Being build)
Holland 
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